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The Caribbean is full of extraordinary physical beauty, of geographies that thrill the imagination—landscapes, beaches, mountain peaks, and islands perfect in one or another way. Given the overabundance of beauty in the region, we'd understand the inclination to react skeptically to claims about the superlative nature of Dominica's intense, verdant glories. In theory, that is—because Dominica deserves all the accolades it receives. On approach to Melville Hall Airport on the island's east coast, it's impossible not to wonder at the vast expanse of rainforest beneath. The deeply rich, variegated greens are canopied and impossibly dense.

Much of Dominica is rainforest. Well over half of Dominica's land is either protected from or unsuitable for development. This leaves a relatively small portion of the island for inhabitation and exploitation. The restriction of development to a rather small fraction of the island's area places limits on the island's development. For this reason—and also because the island has very little in the way of white sand, postcard-primed beachfront—Dominica has never seen the kind of intense tourism development that has overwhelmed many corners of the Caribbean.

It is difficult to prepare oneself for the assault of greenery that Dominica presents. Arguably the Caribbean's greenest and least developed island, Dominica's natural heritage is extraordinary, though it presents just a piece of the island's appeal.  The geological youth of the island means that there are incredible natural sights on offer, including steaming sulfuric fumaroles and a boiling lake called, rather appropriately, Boiling Lake. The island is filled with other bits of natural beauty as well: waterfalls, black-sand beaches, protected rainforests, and mineral hot springs.

Hikers Paradise: Boiling Lake

The hike to Boiling Lake is Dominica's champion hike, the benchmark by which all hikes on the island—and, for that matter, for much of the Caribbean—are judged. It's about 20 kilometers (12 miles) there and back from the trailhead near the village of Laudat. The trail winds its way precariously up and down peaks, through the spooky, sloping Valley of Desolation, over several streams, and, finally, to the Boiling Lake itself. Boiling Lake is the largest boiling lake in the Americas, and the second-largest in the world. (New Zealand's Frying Pan Lake is the world's biggest.)

Boiling Lake is located in Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The national park is one of only a handful of natural UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Caribbean. It occupies a large piece of the southern half of the island. In addition to Boiling Lake, the national park includes waterfalls (Middleham Falls and Trafalgar Falls), and the Valley of Desolation, with its steaming vents, fumaroles, and mud pots—all at marked contrast from the rich greenery surrounding it.

Boiling Lake really must be approached with a trained guide. Hotels will coordinate with guides, all of whom know the terrain very well. Expect to pay about US$60 (around EC$160) for a guide.

Accommodations Scene

On the ground, Dominica is one of the Caribbean's least expensive islands. Even the priciest hotels and resorts on the island are well under the nightly hotel averages for many Caribbean islands. Value is quite high here, as well. The basic range on Dominica is between $60 and $130 per night for a double room. We are partial to Papillote Wilderness Retreat, which runs $100 per night for a double room in high season and offers a superb restaurant, stunning gardens, pools fed by mineral springs, close proximity to Trafalgar Falls, and good connections with local guides.

Getting to Dominica

There are direct flights to Dominica's Melville Hall Airport by American Airlines (San Juan), Conviasa (Porlamar), and LIAT (Antigua, Barbados, Guadeloupe, and St. Lucia).