Big Corn Island, Nicaragua (Textor)
Located deep in the Roseau Valley and adjacent to the majestic Trafalgar Falls, Papillote Wilderness Retreat is a rare bird of a resort, an eco-friendly lodge with an outstanding kitchen, surrounded by intense, gorgeous greenery. The owners (an expat American named Anne and a Dominican fellow named Cuthbert) have created a truly fabulous retreat, which we rank easily as one of our favorite places in the Caribbean.
Rooms are simple and well-ventilated, with mosquito nets over beds and private bathroom facilities. Most have verandahs with lovely views over the Roseau Valley. Room aesthetic is simple and generally bright.
The kitchen serves up delicious and reasonably priced meals that benefit from Dominica's extraordinarily fecund agriculture. The local fish and fowl are delicious and the fruits and vegetables are incredibly fresh. There's a wicked house cocktail on offer as well, an orangey rum punch that needs to be imbibed carefully.
The entire resort, which clings to a gentle hillside slope, is landscaped as a botanical garden. Two mineral water streams—one hot, one cold—flow down through the property. Both are integrated into the gardens and the resort's general landscape. Pools fed by the streams provide bathing and soaking opportunities. It's enjoyable to spend an entire day between the garden and the pools, enjoying the verdant stillness of the property.
Papillote provides a fabulous base for explorations of the island. Staff are used to organizing activities and tours for guests and also know the island's ecology and history like the back of their hands.