Budget-friendly guide to independent travel in the Caribbean
 
affordable beds
$70

An Tikaz La

koucou review

Ahh, An Tikaz La!

After hours of transit—an ordeal that included switching airports on St. Martin and motoring across Guadeloupe in a taxi careening over the motorways—arriving at An Tikaz La was a special and welcoming experience. There was the scent of ylang-ylang and lemongrass in the air, and the personable proprietor, a woman named Mi-Marie, led us through the moonlight around her modest gîte.

Mi-Marie has an infectuous laugh and a kind, interested demeanor. After ascertaining that we were very hungry, she drove us into the center of Trois-Rivières to a restaurant for dinner, and then picked us up when we were finished—all without charging a cent.

Accommodations are simple and quite rustic. Our cabin had two rooms and a huge shower and toilet room. Brightly painted, it was minimally furnished and cooled with a fan. A mosquito net was the most crucial item. Outdoor kitchen facilities were shared between the In the morning, we opened the back door to a wall of massive green fronds and then walked up the driveway to look out over the low-lying Les Saintes archipelago and hulking Dominica behind it. Gorgeous.

A former science teacher from the Jura, Mi-Marie is strongly committed to green values and to partnering as much as possible with locals. She's part of an alternative tourism initiative on Guadeloupe, and is a great resource for campers, trekkers, and other outdoorsy types.

An Tikaz La is a truly lovely gîte. For people who don't mind the simple accommodations, it fits the bill charmingly well.